Boston Apothecary

September 3, 2009

m.i.a.

Filed under: Uncategorized — sjs @ 11:33 pm

if anybody is wondering what i’m up to i’ve mainly been writing about drinks on egullet. i haven’t done too much that fits into the bostonapothecary blog. i just made the final cuts on a pear eau de vie which is now mellowing. i also just inter library loaned six mid century wine & vines articles on vermouth production that i’ll review here eventually. traffic is slim and comes mainly from search results. people do search for crazy things and apparently there is a lot of interest in the power of the hydrometer and the sugar content of liqueurs. (maybe for caloric reasons?)

if anyone for some reason wants more of the bostonapothecary check out my musings on the egullet spirits and cocktail forum…

March 4, 2009

The Alcohol Library

Filed under: Uncategorized — Tags: — sjs @ 4:59 pm

http://distillers.tastylime.net/library/

this site is most excellant for anyone making a hobby out of understanding alcohol from art to science…

January 3, 2009

deconstructing sweet vermouth…

Filed under: Uncategorized, distillation, liqueur recipes, vermouth — Tags: , , , — sjs @ 3:41 pm

well my aim here is to sacrifice a bottle of stock’s sweet vermouth to learn something about it. most importantly its official sugar content unobscured by alcohol what can only really be found by using a still.

so before distillation and separation of the alcohol, the vermouth’s brix can be tested obscured by its alcohol content to see how much it throws off the hydrometer. (11.25 brix) well most people’s understanding is that sweet vermouths are much higher in sugar so maybe the alcohol (16%) throws the hydrometer off more than i thought… (i really just estimated the reading would be off one or two percentage points)

i put the vermouth into the still with an equal volume of water to essentially split it in half. the half left in the still is sugar, water, acid, and whatever aromatic compounds that do not distill. what comes through is alcohol, distilled water, and what ever aromatic compounds that are distillable.

after the run and refilling what was left in the still to the original volume with distilled water (because a small volume escaped the system) the hydrometer shows a reading of 15.5 brix. this result seems likely because it is within maynard amerine’s guidelines for sweet vermouth.

cool. now we have something intuitive to shoot for in our home made vermouths.

during the run i was also able to taste the distillate as it came out of the the still. the results were very cool in that it smelt exactly like it does out of the bottle. you do see some of the separations of the botanicals as they move through in waves. the orange phase is the most distinct and intense showing how important shades of orange are to a sweet vermouth. i thought i noticed a whisper of vanilla along the way that i never tasted before in stock and towards the end i noticed heavier wormwood-maybe herb-like aromas.

now the 15.5 brix measurement of sugar can be translated to grams/liter so we can think of it in another way. with the help of the grams/liter translation, the volume the vermouth’s sugar takes up when dissolved can be found so that we can solve our two variable equation for sugaring and fortifying our wines to stock’s 16% alc. by 15.5 brix model. (port often uses a 18% alc. by 6 brix model so if you substitute it for vermouth you will need to compensate with extra sugar for a drink that isn’t too dry!)

a formula that i’ve come across but never really used is weight in g/l = sg * brix * 10

brix 15.5 = SG 1.06326 so —-> g/l = 1.06326 * 15.5 * 10 = 164.8 g/l

which is 5.81 oz. if you can’t handle metric

(what is interesting is that the tables in the back of daniel pambianchi’s “techniques in home wine making” show different results… his would be higher by more than 20 grams… so did i go wrong anywhere? i used the “circular of the national bureau of standards” to get my specific gravity for 15.5 brix. the circulars table also computes the g/l of sucrose so it is an awesome resource to the liqueur maker.)

now we can see what 164.8 grams of sugar looks like undissolved volumetrically in an oxo measuring cup. using whole foods organic sugar it looks like 3/4 of a cup (different sugar types will make it vary slightly).

when dissolved this will compress. but by how much? supposedly there are wine makers tables for such things but i haven’t been able to locate any. pembianchi does note that adding 250 g to 1 liter of water yields a new volume of approximately 1.2 liters.

a useful table may not be that important since we are primarily going to be using the same sugar content over and over. we can probably rely on a one time experiment with sugar and water.

a sugar-water solution and my scale shows that 164.8 g/l dissolves and compresses to become about 86 milli liters in volume (2.9 fluid oz.)

this gets us closer to how much we have to over fortify the wine to bring it back to 16% when sugar is added. more algebra could solve it exactly but the numbers are looking round and it should be noted that alcoholic beverage labels, even on wines, are allowed to have a one percentage point margin of error so if it was really 17% alc. put printed as 16% alc. they would be off by more than 5% and be ok… we could just fortify to 17.5% before we add our sugar and be done with it… (we don’t even know how accurate the wine we use to start is anyhow…!)

sounds good to me…

my understanding from amerine’s books is that we want as little alcohol as possible so our beverage will not be hot tasting or cost us lots of tax money. sweet vermouths commonly are 16% alc. while dry vermouths are usually 18%. being over 16% alc. puts both over the very important acetification point (vinegar bacteria) but sweet vermouth may be able to be slightly lower because its large sugar content protects it from various other lactic bacterial spoilage thresholds (i really don’t know but 18% is a key number for those). another reason for the differing alcohol contents could be because within a producer’s production process, both sweet and dry (before they are aromatized) come from the same fortified wine stock (noilly prat!). the volume of the sugar in the sweet dilutes the alcohol to 16% (with an accepted one percentage point margin of error!).

November 12, 2008

construction

Filed under: Uncategorized — Tags: , , — sjs @ 3:52 pm

i’m still trying to construct a gin like product. many formulas are known but i am trying to break away from them to create something new with a lot of “direction”. i’m still intensely interested in hops, particularly the fruitier smelling varieties. hitachino’s “kiuchi no shizuku” has a gorgeous aroma that seems to lean more on fruit from their hops than an herbaceous character. apricot is easily perceived but the fruitiness may be exacerbated by their choice of orange peel. i thought that maybe i could split botanicals off into pairs to find good proportions like balancing coriander and orange peel. but now i see that hops may need to be paired with the orange peel to produce the seductive fruity character. so this seemingly simple trio becomes more interrelated than any other trio i can think off. juniper seems like it could easily be split off from coriander & orange peel which is the case in many classic gin recipes where you see seriously variable amounts of juniper to the fairly constant ratios of coriander & orange peel.

well for my latest five liter batch i used…

75g coriander

200g creole shrub

200g pacific jade hops

these hops proved to be more herbaceous than the palisades but they are still very enjoyable. finding the right hop variety will be key to locking down a recipe. i split off the coriander and orange peel and distilled them from a liter of 80 proof spirits plus the small amount of the alcohol in the shrub out to 120 proof. i distilled the hops with 3.5 liters of 80 proof spirits out to about 150 proof. i did loose about a 100ml or so at the end when the distillate turned cloudy very quickly on me. to bring things to about 5 liters at 80 proof i needed to add 500ml of 80 proof spirits plus the 100 or so ml i lost when i tossed the really cloudy distillate. upon cutting everything down to proof with distilled water everything turned really cloudy on me which i’m afraid may be the nature of hops. hitachino has a crystal clear product but i suspect when they distill the beer to 30 proof and let it sit in barrels with extra botanicals before redistilling, it may have something to do with leaving behind what ever produces the cloudiness. my understanding is that only the middle run at 80-85% alcohol is saved for gin which is not what i’m practicing.

so i should state that i love the taste but i need a crystal clear product. i guess i could redistill and risk loosing some aroma to try and gain clarity, but i should probably also read up on techniques for cutting down over proof spirits.

***update***

so part of the cloudiness has subsided and decent amount of separated oil has risen to the surface which indicates that i accepted far too much of the tails even though the taste and aroma was not objectionable. i’ve read that you can sometimes skim off the oils but it doesn’t totally solve the problem. i will probably still need to redistill.

***update!***

so i redistilled everything to maybe 160 proof or so separating everything into five pints. i was then planning on diluting them one at a time to see at what point thing would be cloudy (if at all). well things didn’t work out so well. the first jar become very cloudy which means that there is a problem with the heads and the second jar is cloudy but far less so. i was pretty sure the second jar would be far into the middle run and not leave any problems… so now i really don’t know what to do… the distillate is especially delicious by the way… so i have a good motivator to move forward. i also did learn that the hop variety that sierra nevada used in their beer schnapps was cascade… if anyone would come forth with any advice i’d be happy to take it…

so i may just have to dilute with 80 proof spirits instead of water. if gin must be clear there may be limits to its intensity. this is also relative to the final alcohol content. i’m probably just making my recipes too intense.

October 25, 2008

antisepctic botanicals and the “human condition”

Filed under: Uncategorized — Tags: , , , — sjs @ 6:06 pm

lets set some ideas down on paper…

stephen harrod buhner does the greatest job i’ve ever encountered of explaining the relevance of antiseptic botanicals to our human experience in his book “sacred and herbal healing beers”. maybe i will elaborate eventually but my immediate goal is to help people in the distilled spirits world get over their botanical myopia so that we can move forward into the 21rst century. i need more from my antiseptic experience. juniper always gives me the same bland fix while hops and their diversity thrills me… i got a taste of the potential of this from the brilliant people at hitachino who nearly perfected the hopped distillate while no one was looking. you’d think i’d be satisfied but hitachino’s “kiuchi no shizuku” is so hard to come by and i can’t afford to drink as much as i want. my solution is to figure out how to capture hops, coriander and orange people for my self…

2 oz. of palisade hops redistilled in 1 liter of appleton white jamaica rum is a gorgeous olfactory experience but more intense than the standard gin and cutting it won’t be a problem. the half the weight of juniper equals coriander formula won’t work either… but i can keep adding more and redistilling until i get it right or compound a tincture. and i can’t get small amounts of quality orange peel… no problem i don’t know how many grams are in a liter of cointreau but its about the best bitter orange tincture money can buy… its consistency will help me develop bottle sized batches. eventually i will be drinking this stuff at $15 a liter…

so we are up to 2 oz. palisades hops in the first distillation which was quite good but probably would need to be diluted with neutral spirits to come down to comparable gin intensity.

then we redistilled with 14 g. of coriander merely boiled in the spirit as it heated to distill. the room does fill with hop aroma which shows that lots of our flavor unfortunately leaks during a redistillation. i never really see botanicals described well by the spirits or cocktail world but beer brewers do an excellent job and the orange character of the botanical they profess is no joke. i can see how a little natural orange can lend a degree of synonymous flavor depth but it should be far more minimal than you would think. my limited experience would say orange is a more noble botanical but here coriander really is the show. perhaps more than the hops.

now i have left to add some cointreau to taste before i redistill yet again to achieve my rough draft. i wonder how much i will add…

***update***

well i had no cointreau after all so i used clement’s creole shrub as my orange tincture but i was thinking of even giving fee’s orange bitters a go as my standard for orange. my sample has diminished after many tastings, so i’m down to about 600 ml therefore all of my ratio’s so far have become kind of meaningless. (i used 20 grams of shrub for the 600ml) maybe next time i need to make a 5x batch so that my sampling will be insignificant enough to not mess up the botanical ratios i’m trying to figure out.

one other thing to note is that i rediscovered how incredible real licorice is in a tea my boss shared with me. i need to figure out how to fit it into one of these simpler more muscled types of formulas.

botanical aromatized distillates keep becoming more interesting to me from a consumer interest perspective. consumers seem to accept vodka as an aesthetic goal of neutrality but gin has to contain juniper and be about juniper. if you use the “gin” name even slightly loosely for some reason you get stopped in your tracks with a “then its not gin” comment more often than any curiosity about a new idea. vodka gets a lot of freedom. it can be made from grapes and not be brandy and made from sugar and not be rum. as long as its neutral its vodka. gin gets all the conservatism. people don’t even seem to give coriander any credit, even though its used in huge amounts relative to any other potential supporting botanical… to me, coriander seems less replaceable to the formula than juniper. so to help any new products onto the market, gin needs to shift from something very literal to something of a more general aesthetic goal.

so in what direction do i need to move to lock down a solid recipe? keep distilling everything together or compound fairly potent mono concentrates and spend some time playing with some carefully measured blends?

October 24, 2008

french top punch

Filed under: Uncategorized — Tags: , , — sjs @ 11:09 pm

i just recently presented at a charity culinary event for rett syndrome with chef. liquor was not exactly part of the presentation but we decided it would be fun to put something together for the chefs and line cooks working the event as well as our attending friends among the many donors to the charity. in the past we have mixed these drinks a la minute or created small batches but i’ve slowly learned the wisdom of the flowing bowl… i actually just did a cocktail party for 40 or so people that really reinforced the wisdom… people only wanted to get drunk. barely anyone noticed the drinks… and i spent too much time working because i didn’t batch anything… so now for parties i’m only using the flowing bowl format…

this event’s punch required fernet because it was mostly for chefs and line cooks a.k.a. the people who work the “french top” who are also addicted to the amaro. to make it less masochistic i added some fruit flavor contrast via chambord (specifically over any other fruit based liqueur) then something tart to balance (lemon juice) then something bubbly and slightly acidic (cava) to make it more punch like and elegant…

375 ml fernet branca

375 ml chambord

375 ml lemon juice

750-1500ml cava (segura viudas)

combine all in a punch bowl with large chunks of ice… change the ratio of cava for your desired alcohol and flavor intensity…

this was loved or feared like the best things in life. i personally felt like i could spend a solid evening drinking nothing but this punch… those that didn’t like it are already known to be vodka-soda wusses. some astute drinkers thought the punch brought into focus the aromatized elements of the chambord. if i changed this recipe in any way it would be to add a couple hundred milli liters of batavia arrak or cape verdean rum.

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